This material provides additional information about house components and routine home maintenance. The information is intended as a guide. It is not exhaustive, and some of the information may not apply to your residence. We recommend the use of licensed (where applicable) professionals with knowledge of the construction and systems particular to your house.
We applaud homeowners who actively maintain their residences. Maintaining your house may provide your own “Peace of Mind”, as well as economic rewards. However, the structural, mechanical, electrical and plumbing systems of your house are usually complex. Care should always be taken:
- In particular, we recommend a "spotter" (person to hold ladder while climbing) when using a ladder. Do not place ladder near wires or other obstacles, which could pose a hazard.
- Before attempting any plumbing repair, be certain that the shut off valve that controls the branch off system on which you are working is in good working order. In case of unexpected damage to a plumbing fixture, you must be able to shut off the water to that area. Neglecting this precaution could result in property damage.
- Always turn off the electricity at the circuit breaker when working on any item through which electricity is running (e.g. hot water heater, furnace, appliances etc)
While repairs are often all that is necessary for a roof surface to continue to perform satisfactorily, it is recommend to have a licensed roofer periodically check roofing surfaces and materials, cement joints and flashing. Allow for annual inspection and maintenance of slate, asbestos shingle, wood shingle, wood shake and built up roofing. Age and weather will cause deterioration.
Keep tree branches trimmed away from roof, chimney top, wires & house. Clean gutters & downspouts several times per year. Check soffit, fascia & other trim for decay, leakage and flaking paint. We recommend steel weather caps, with mesh or grill sides for all masonry chimneys, to keep rain and snow from entering chimney flue and to keep birds, squirrels or other pests out of chimney. If FRT plywood is identified, the homeowner should regularly inspect FRT plywood for evidence of progressive deterioration. A periodic visual inspection by a roofer or qualified home inspector may be advisable.
SLATE ROOFS - Roofing slates can crack or slide out of position. Ridges & flashings need to be resealed periodically. Allow for annual inspection of your roof, and perform annual maintenance as required.
Sloped roofs are not watertight, per se. Water is shed much like an umbrella. Low pitch shingle applications are prone to leakage, especially with driving rainstorms or damning ice. Allow for annual inspection of your roof, and perform annual maintenance as required.
FLAT ROOFS - Flat (most often, low pitch) roofing is designed to be impervious to water penetration; they are however prone to leaking and will require more frequent maintenance. Tar and felt roofing surfaces generally require re-coating every 2-4 years, however it is not uncommon to require annual repairs & maintenance. Always be certain there is no standing water for long periods of time (can accelerate deterioration).
BUILT-IN GUTTERS - Gutters of this type are prone to leakage and may require routine repair and/or replacement.
UNDERGROUND RUNOFFS - Underground drainpipes for window wells, areaway drains or other exterior surface drains are not evaluated as to function or condition; inspect & maintain on a regular basis. It is not uncommon for clogging to occur resulting in a backup in your basement, surrounding area and even an adjacent property.
COPPER GUTTER/FLASHING - Copper is prone to pitting (weakening & developing small holes). Regular inspection & maintenance as necessary could help to delay this process.
GALVANIZED GUTTERING/FLASHING - Galvanized metal is prone to rusting. We recommend periodic painting of gutter interiors, flashing, and skylight frames to inhibit rusting (“tar” coating is not recommended). Regular inspection & maintenance as necessary could help extend its life, but replacement should be considered at some point as recommended by a professional.
EXTERIOR WASTE LINES - Exterior waste lines are sometimes prone to freezing.
SKYLIGHTS - Skylights in general are prone to leaking. Regular inspection & maintenance may help to prevent leakage, however there’s never 100%.
WOOD SHAKES/SHINGLES - Recommend yearly cleaning and treating every 2-4 years with an appropriate non-toxic wood preservative. Wood shingle or wood shake roofs, as installed by most builders today, tend to have a much shorter life span than they did in the past. This is partly because of the relatively poor quality of the shakes currently available on the market. Most builders today nail the shakes directly to the plywood roof or deck rather than elevating them from the deck with raised nailing strips. The older method provided ventilation to the underside of the shakes or shingles. The newer method does not, and contributes to the deterioration of the shakes or shingles.
METAL SURFACES - Recommend periodic painting of metal surfaces with a rust inhibiting paint. “Tar” coating is not recommended.
CHIMNEYS - Your inspection does not include the chimney or fireplace. We recommend a licensed chimney sweeps inspect & clean chimneys every year prior to the burning season.
WALLS - Settlement and shrinkage cracks in masonry walls (and floors) are considered to be of a normal nature. Such cracks should be monitored by the building owner and if the crack expands to ¼” or greater, a structural engineer or other licensed professional should evaluate the situation.
DECKS - Decks built directly on the ground (or wood that has ground contact) are prone to rotting, wood boring insects, and premature weathering. Wooden porches, railings, stairs etc. are prone to warping, shrinking, fading, splintering & a full array of other components; evaluate periodically & correct as necessary. Problems have arisen with the attachment of additions, garage, decks, porches etc. to the dwelling. Unless special provisions are made for securing the deck properly, it may pull loose from the house and could collapse, causing serious injury. A structural engineer or licensed contractor may be necessary to fully evaluate & correct as required.
EXTERIOR STRUCTURE RECOMMENDATIONS
- Caulk exterior trim work, windows, and doors periodically & especially prior to painting.
- Store firewood & other wood products away from house (invitation to termites & other pests).
- Periodically check weather-stripping at doors and windows, clean tracks & ensure drain holes are clear.
- Periodically check painted surfaces for paint failure or paint flaking.
- Periodically check trim and siding for decay, looseness, damage, or warping.
- Periodically check masonry walls for cracks, looseness, and missing or broken mortar. Where steel or iron railing posts are set in concrete porches or steps, installers frequently leave a depression in the concrete, which holds water around the post and rusts it through. Clean the depression thoroughly & scrape rust from metal. Prime and paint with rust inhibiting paint. Then fill the depression with an epoxy type patching cement to prevent water from collecting there.
- Check periodically, steps, retaining walls, walks, patios, driveways, garage floor, etc., for cracks, heaving, or crumbling.
- Check areaway drain/cover regularly to minimize chance of back up.
ATTACHED/DETACHED BUILDINGS
- Periodically check automatic garage door opener for proper operation of automatic reverse/stop. Check rollers and tracks for signs of excessive wear and be certain that all of the moving parts are properly lubricated. Also be certain to periodically re-tighten the screws & bolts in both the door(s) & associated hardware.
- Modern building codes require that where a house has an attached garage, the door between the house and the garage must be fire rated and must be self-closing. Many older houses do not meet this requirement because it was not part of the code when they were built. If this is the case in your house, we recommend replacing the door with one, which meets current code.
- Modern building codes require that where a house has an attached garage, the floor of the garage must be several inches below the floor of the house. This is so that, in case of any gasoline spillage or leakage from a vehicle, the fumes, which are heavier than air, will not flow readily into the house. If your garage floor does not comply with the above, we recommend installing a vent on an outside wall, at floor level, to provide egress for fuel fumes. Installation of a CO detector would be helpful, as well.
Part 1 - Roof and Exterior
Part 2 - Heating and Cooling
Part 3 - Plumbing and Electrical
Part 4 - Windows and Doors
